World of WaterThe UK's Leading Aquatic Superstores and suppliers of pond pumps, filters and linersMain Site - Online Shop - News - Brochure Request |
|
|
Main
Site Home
|
Positioning Your Garden Pond...Some people prefer to have the garden pond close to a viewing area near to the house while others prefer to keep it further down the garden, as a separate “room” to visit when there is time to relax. Either way, try and position the pond so that it is sheltered from cold prevailing winds and receives sun light for at least half the day, as this encourages the growth and flowering of most water plants - especially lilies. Where possible, avoid overhanging trees as their leaves and blossom will fall in and need to be removed periodically. Particular attention should be paid to any willow, elder, oak, yew, poplars and laburnums trees in the area as their leaves are highly toxic. Additionally this will avoid tree roots piercing the pond membrane. Any deep excavations next to structures such as walls should not be risked as ground disturbance could cause foundations and walls to subside. Although an electricity supply can be added at a later date, it will cause less disturbance to the surrounding area if it is incorporated in the initial planning and positioning of the pond. Other factors to consider include avoiding areas where surface water tends to collect, or the presence of a high water table, as this water could easily push up under pond liners causing a number of major problems. Also avoiding these areas will reduce the risk of any pollutants being washed into the pond during heavy rain. Positioning Tips...
Pond Shape...The shape and surface area are generally down to personal preferences but it is always best to create a shape which allows the “natural” flow of water. Using complex shapes should be avoided to alleviate construction difficulties and create less folding and wastage of pond liner. It’s always a good idea to take a rope or hose and spend time creating the shape of the pond you desire. It may be that a pre-formed pond will fit your requirements. Alternatively- measurements can be taken and the correct liner size calculated. Using the simple step by step guides throughout this site will help you to plan and budget the amount of materials you will require. See "Calculating Your Liner Size" page. If you are considering a stream or waterfall, it is wise to keep it in proportion to the size of the pond, as a small pond with a large waterfall could suffer problems such as turbulent water flow or varying water levels when the pumps are switched on. These factors are undesirable for a balanced pond with plants and fish, but would be fine if you are only wishing to create a waterfall feature where the pond is purely a reservoir for the feature. Tips on shapes...
Pond Depth...Ideally koi, ghost carp, and other large fish need a depth of at least 91 cm (3 feet) in the deepest part of the pond to allow these fish, which can grow to over 61 cm (2 feet) in length, to over winter successfully. Smaller fish such as goldfish, shubunkins and sarasa comets can be housed in smaller ponds, with a minimum depth of 46 cm (18 inches). It is helpful in maintaining a healthy and balanced pond to have at least 40% of the pond area at the maximum desired depth. This will reduce the likelihood of temperature fluctuations which can encourage algae growth and be harmful to fish health. Tips on depth...
Pond Planting Areas...Marginal plants like to be positioned in shallow water around the edge of the pond, this means that the marginal shelves should be at least 23 cm (9”) deep to allow sufficient depth for the planting containers. It is useful to purchase planting baskets of different sizes before digging the pond to use as templates to dig the shelves at the appropriate depth. Remember that the more shelves available, the more plants can be used. Plants are the most important factor in creating a natural balance in the pond as they soak up nutrients that would otherwise encourage algae growth. Koi and other large carp can be destructive to plants, therefore in ponds specifically for Koi it is worth creating a separate planting area that the fish are unable to access. These can take the form of shallow water areas for marginal plants or moist soil ares for bog plants (see edging methods). Tips on planting areas...
Material...Pre-formed....Liner...or...Concrete..?Concrete construction.This is the least popular method as it can be more
expensive than other methods. Foundations must be solid and reinforced
to prevent cracking if the subsoil shifts during the course of the year.
Once rendered, the pool must be painted with at least two coats of a
purpose made pond paint. Pre-formed pools.Pre-formed ponds are made out of plastic or fibreglass, and are available in a wide range of shapes and sizes. They are extremely durable, and are popular with many, because once installed they have a smooth surface without creases. Don’t be misled into buying one too small for your requirements - they look far bigger out of the ground than they do when they are installed. At any of our centres you will be able to see examples of pre-formed pools both out of the ground and installed, to give you an idea of the difference in scale. (See "Preformed Ponds") Flexible liners.Liners are the most popular and cost effective way of creating a garden pond. They are available in a wide range of materials and sizes and allow you to make a pond of any shape. Remember that the manufacturers guarantee does not include punctures - so it is worth taking care to install correctly, using a good quality underlay. (See "Liners") Remember: -Should a liner or a preformed pool fail once it has been installed, the guarantee will only cover the replacement or repair of the liner, not the installation costs, so World of Water have made sure they only sell top quality liners. Care must be taken to avoid exposed liner showing above the water level once it has been installed. Not only does it look unsightly, but sunlight can slowly degrade it. Siting Ponds...
|